Spinels are absolutely gorgeous stones, but remain relatively unknown compared to other gemstones. This underappreciated gem has been treasured throughout the centuries, but often in cases of mistaken identity. Its beauty, durability, and variety of rich colors make it worth a spotlight. It’s also a new alternative birthstone for August.
Spinel, which ranges from bright fire-engine red through oranges and pinks to purples, blues, and black, was treasured by ancient royals across Asia and Europe. Although they have long been treasured as emblems of empires, often they were imposters within the royal court.
Mistaken Identity
The large red stones mined in Asia were misidentified as “Balas rubies,” named for the mine’s location. Without the advances of modern science, collectors and jewelers relied solely on a stone’s visual appearance for identification. Spinels are very hard (8 on the Mohs scale), and their reds are exceptionally beautiful; because rubies are also hard and red, they were easily confused.
Now we know that what makes one particular stone a ruby or a spinel is really in the chemical composition of the crystal. We can tell the difference between one stone and another with training and tools; gemologists may use a refractometer, do a hardness test, or measure the stone’s specific gravity, among other scientific methods, to identify a stone. In years past, however, jewelers lacked the scientific understanding to know the difference between one pretty red stone and another.
The 170ct “Black Prince’s Ruby,” was set in the Imperial English Crown for Queen Victoria in 1838. It was stolen from a sultan in 1371 during the Spanish Reconquista and given to the medieval English Prince Edward as payment for services. It has been worn by members of the British Royal family ever since. This famous “ruby” is actually a spinel. (Photo source: townandcountrymag.com)
The Russian Imperial crown was made for Catherine the Great in 1762. At its top perches a 398.72ct “ruby,” which was later discovered to be a spinel. (Photo source: Wikimedia Commons)
The Timur “Ruby” is a famous 352.5ct stone that belonged to the 14th century Mongol conqueror Amir Timur and was passed through royal collections until acquired by Queen Victoria. It has since belonged to the British royal family. You guessed it– it’s a spinel. (Photo source: Wikimedia Commons)
Appreciating spinel in its own right
There’s more to this stone than its centuries-long history as a royal imposter. These beautiful stones are so naturally beautiful and perfect in their crystalline form, that in Burma they are said to be “nat thwe” or “polished by the spirits.” They are actually more reflective than rubies, so their sparkle is incredible.
In 2015, the 50.13ct Hope Spinel (previously owned by the same family as the famous Hope Diamond) set a record for spinel auction prices, reaching $30,000 per carat, proving that this gemstone is treasured by collectors in its own right. (Photo Source: bonhams.com)
Spinels are so beautiful, and dare we say it, often prettier than the stones with which they used to be confused. Because these gems form in large crystals with few inclusions, it’s easier to find an eye-clean red spinel of good size than it is to find a similarly beautiful ruby. And the availability of spinels in many colors, combined with their precious-gem quality hardness, makes them wonderful for many jewelry creations.
These Bulgari earrings in turquoise, spinel, gold, and diamonds sold for $52,500 at auction to benefit Elizabeth Taylor’s AIDS charity in 2013, showing a 21st century revival of this gem prized by the ancients. (Photo source: sothebys.com)
This artfully cut pink spinel is an example of the type of amazingly beautiful gem that deserves a setting in fine jewelry.(Photo source: johndyergems.com)
Whether you’re feeling like a queen, king, tsar, or sultan (or maybe you’re in an Elizabeth Taylor mood), you can create amazing custom spinel jewelry at Secrete Fine Jewelry in Washington, DC, and Bethesda, MD. Contact us today to schedule an appointment or to start the design process from afar.
